Tet Holiday

The Lunar New Year, "Tet", is probably the biggest holiday of the year here and we spent it with the remaining kids and Duc Son. About half of the children's parents are still living, but can't support them or they have extended family who they can visit for a few days on this holiday which is centered around family. The rest of the kids who don't have any family beyond that at Duc Son "an tet" at the orphanage. Hue is a fairly conservative/traditional city and most local businesses close for anywhere from two days to two weeks to spend time at home with family and friends.

We were invited to join the Duc Son family in the Buddha Hall at 4 am on New Years Day, so we decided to forgoe the downtown/firework celebration of the eve, it being cold and rainy didn't make it any more difficult to decide to stay at home, we've been suffering a sort of perpetual cold since the wintry misery set in. We rode alone on the dark streets that morning, with only a few stirring, some getting up, some going to bed. When we got to Duc Son a few nuns were preparing the altar and wrapping themselves in their golden ceremonial robes. Looking from the front steps at Duc Son, beyond the gardens, the lights of a nearby Pagoda are reflected in the grid of pools in the rice paddies below. Gold is also the color of Tet, a symbol of prosperity for the new year. A week before Tet, flower and other assorted vegetation vendors line the streets and the square in front of the citadel. Their "Christmas Tree" is a squat potted beautiful bonzai looking tree with small yellow blossoms.

The nuns, led by Su Minh Tu and Su Minh Duc prostrate to the Buddha altar, then begin chanting the ceremonial rites. The Hall is open to the children and they wander in as they wake, boys on the left, girls on the right, standing with hands pressed palm to palm in prayer. It felt a lot like church to me, with more clergy. The nuns carrying out the rites and chanting teachings not understood, the parishioners trickle in, being poked and postitioned by the older, senior residents. I took my place next to Loc, the oldest male living there, he's in his mid 20's and serves a hybrid care-reciever/care-giver role, helping with operations and child management wherever he can. We stand and chant, sit, prostrate, then the nuns lead a walking chant circumambulating the room, all the while accompanied by several percussion instruments, wood knocker, metal clanker, large alloy bowl. We return to sit and the nuns take turns reading from a text, the boys sitting around me are loudly prodding me with questions and comments, most of which stem from the tet celebration compared to america, my happiness level,or my beard. Thankfully the disruption is met only with smiles from the nuns.

Then they sat US in front of the book and we are asked to open it, the passage on that page opened is read as a sort of "fortune" for the new year--mine was something like cultivating merit and success in helping others. (all of the fortunes have a compassionate Buddhist theme) With formalities aside, laughing and clapping fill the room as more fortunes are read, with the periodic chorus, as the kids sing together. (insert a few local solos plus the grimacing guest performance by yours truly).

Oh, then Minh Tu gives out "li xi" (lucky money). A small red envelope, inside a fresh 5,000 or 10,000 VND note. (about 30 or 60 cents respectively, or the price of a road side meal and half a (motorbike)-tank of gas, respectively). Its a ceremonial (yet practical) gift also meant to represent the recieval of prosperity in the coming year.

A few lay practicers joined us from the surrounding area. The first to arrive, an old wiry man. The marks on his worn and whithered face were matched with holes in his socks. It brought a sobering sense of devotion into the room as he silently stepped out of the dark morning and into the bright hall, between the nuns to the center aisle of the Buddha Hall to offer his respects.

We are slowing learning of the greater role that Minh Tu and the "ministry" of Duc Son plays in the community. The day before we delivered instant noodles and SUPER SEASONING (the ever-abundantly used MSG) to a shelter that serves the blind in the city. We also met a Duc Son alum, a young mother who works as a hair/nail person, husband does 6 month tours in Laos as a lumber driver, struggling to make ends meet, receives help from Minh Tu. A couple times a year they go to some of the more remote mountain areas to deliver rice and necessary supplies.

The rest of the day we accompanied the nuns as they visited some of the nearby pagodas (tet is one part Christmas, one part Halloween, mix one cup Buddhism, add lots of family, cook until jubilant and season with light rain). First we visit the pagoda where Minh Tu spent her early years. We arrive and greet the nuns ( we sort of bob all day, hinging at the waist in greeting or in respectful praise).

Everywhere we went there's candy. some good, some not. Like the one shaped like a corn cob? no good. however, the one that looks like a dirt clod rolled in dry grass? surprisingly delicious. You just never know. On to the Buddha Hall for prostrations and prayer, finish up with some fortunes with the head nun and getting some "li xi". (strange to go to a pagoda and recieve money.) We repeat this process twice more, we walk to a neighboring pagoda past ornamental pools and vegetable gardens. then ride to another pagoda that takes care of the elderly. Being with Minh Tu is very comforting, she's constantly making jokes but the next minute she's quietly sincere. We were all 10 steps behind as she excitedly scurries around the grounds visiting with the nuns, leaving smiles and laughter in her wake. Minh Tu was sure to bring us to the front after their prayer and teaching so that we could pay our respects, given that we stand out a bit, even though we donned the Buddhist layman's grey robes. Me being a head and shoulders above everyone else doesn't help either. (funny picture to come). We would prostrate three times to the headmaster of the pagoda as everyone else looked on, slightly nervewracking, but feeling incredibly honored personally as we honor these teachers, having been permitted to join such a special celebration.

The next day we took a "field trip" with the kids to Da Nang, 2hr by van, one for boys, one for girls. We visited a pagoda there where they are erecting a giant figure of Lady Buddha, we had a picnic and went to the beach to put our feet in the freezing water. We stopped several times both ways, the grass by the roadside is speckled with squatting children, going potty? no, they're all car sick. On the way home everytime i turned around someone else had their face buried in a plastic bag. It was really a sad sight, is it worth it to go for a picnic? I was wondering, but it all comes down to doing something special with your family, however mundane, or awkward or miserable. . .. .or joyous. This is the only family they know, on one of the only trips they make all year, it was a really special day.

(Sorry about my lack of brevity, tet is a very busy time here.)

-Quang Tan (Paul)